KNOTORYUS TALKS TO ALEXANDER FURY ABOUT LOVE, SELF-CONSCIOUS DESIGN AND RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE


Posted on February 14th, by Dominique in art, interview, life, style. No Comments

husk mag

(shirt by Mary Katrantzou)

Last week I instagrammed the cover of a The Face from December 1998. Immediately someone commented: “I believe Luella Bartley reviewed the London shows in this one!”. I wasn’t surprised that person was LOVE magazine editor, Alexander (or Alex) Fury. With a fashion knowledge so profound it spans several centuries, Fury has the uncanny ability to reference the designer, art, season, film or television show a collection is inspired on when the models have only just rounded the corner at the end of the runway. He never forgets anything, not even an article printed almost 15 years ago. After 5 years of being fashion director at Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio, Fury was appointed editor of LOVE magazine last year, both online as in print. He also still works as a creative consultant for the talented designer Mary Katrantzou. With the new issue fresh off the presses, KNOTORYUS thought it’d be great to catch up with him.

kate-moss-love

Kate Moss by Mert & Marcus for LOVE n°9

KNOTORYUS : I remember you talking about your love for the Bottega Veneta SS’01 campaign shot by Sølve Sundsbø with creative direction from Katie Grand a few years ago. How was it working with both of them on the latest issue of Love?

Alex Fury : Incredibly inspiring. That’s a succinct summary.

KNOTORYUS : What project at Love are you most proud of?

Alex Fury : Interviewing Peggy Moffitt – I’m not sure I’m ‘proud’ of it, so much as amazed by it. It was kind of a dream come true.

Peggy Moffit, 2013 Love magazine

Peggy Moffitt by Tim Walker for LOVE n°9

KNOTORYUS : What did you think of the AW’13 shows so far, who are you most excited about?

Alex Fury : Of the menswear shows, I was impressed with JW Anderson in London, and in a very different way I loved Prada and Raf Simons. JW Anderson was impressive because of its statement of fashion over clothes, something Anderson is terribly conscious of doing. Sometimes that self-consciousness can be slightly irritating in a fashion designer, but he walked the tightrope with aplomb. The opposite was true of Prada and Simons: their shows, for me, were about clothes and not fashion. These were garments to be taken at face value. It was about wearing them, not creating a look. And after menswear being so very, very self-conscious of its status as ‘image’, the simple act of making a really good coat seems slightly radical. It got me thinking, at least. And that’s what I like in my fashion. Also, I’m excited to see Mary Katrantzou. I always am.

JWA_M_AW13_Runway_06_WEB

AW’13 JW Anderson

KNOTORYUS : What was your favourite era in fashion and why?

Alex Fury : I can find something to get excited over in just about every era. I’m a fan of bias-cut hose in the fourteenth and fifteenth century at the moment. And early nineties Westwood. ‘Dressing Up’ and ‘Always On Camera’ are personal favourites. Lurex pectoral-pads and all.

VW92

AW’92 Vivienne Westwood ‘Always on Camera’ by Gilles Bensimon for ELLE

KNOTORYUS : One of my earliest fashion memories was at age seven, seeing Björk in McQueen on the cover of her album Homogenic. I didn’t know back then who Nick Knight was, but I was absolutely petrified yet so enthralled by that picture. What is your first memory of a Nick Knight photo?

Alex Fury : God. Probably Nick’s Yohji catalogues from the eighties (seen, I hasten to add, slightly later by me as a teenager in the nineties). Those images are still extraordinary, and inspiring, and a great many are unsurpassed.

bjork-1997-nick-knight-homogenic-01

Björk in ’97 by Nick Knight

nick-knight1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

AW’86 Yohji Yamamoto catalogue by Nick Knight

KNOTORYUS : What is the most valuable lesson you’ve learned after working with Nick for 5 years?

Alex Fury : Nick’s search for beauty is incredible. It’s a quest that reminds me of nineteenth century aesthetes. It’s the idea of being able to find beauty everywhere, of searching for the pinnacle of beauty in every object. It may not be a conventional idea of beauty, but it’s about pushing to find perfection. That embodies Nick’s approach to image-making.

KNOTORYUS : You used to be an investment banker, what was your last big investment and why did you make it?

Alex Fury : I invested a great deal of time in the latest issue of LOVE. And that’s probably the most valuable thing of all.

KNOTORYUS : What is your biggest pet peeve?

Alex Fury : I have many: chewing-gum, people with a lack of spatial awareness, general rudeness, public transport, British weather, French waiters, Italian traffic, American customs. Not necessarily in that order. And that’s definitely not a definitive list…

KNOTORYUS : Speaking of pets, how are you dealing with the recent discovery that your bunny Latrice is a shemale?

Alex Fury : She’s taking it one day at a time. Miss Latrice is still large and in charge. And she’s still a she.

alexanderfury

Miss Latrice

KNOTORYUS : I love a spot of 90s Brandy when writing, what do you listen to when you’re working?

Alex Fury : At the moment I am mildly obsessed with the Marilyn Manson soundtrack to the winter 2011 Marc Jacobs show.

KNOTORYUS : What are you looking forward to the most in 2013?

Alex Fury : 10 more weeks of RuPaul’s Drag Race.

KNOTORYUS : Who is your favourite?

Alex Fury : This season belongs to Lineysha Sparx!

INTERVIEW BY IMMI ABRAHAM FOR KNOTORYUS

Follow Alex Fury on twitter and instagram

(Image sources, top to bottom: Husk MagazineLOVE, Katie ChutzpahNGAKaty SunderlandHannarnia’s World, Alex Fury’s instagram

 

Related Posts with Thumbnails



Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Connect with Facebook



JOHN WATERS ANNOUNCES NEW BOOK “MAKE TROUBLE” WEARING WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

“I’ve figured how not to be around assholes at any time in my private or my professional life.”

– John Waters.

And isn’t that just what...

BRUNO PIETERS LAUNCHES ‘HONEST BY. SPORT’ COLLECTION

Internationally acclaimed Belgian designer Bruno Pieters, who has helmed ‘honest by.’: the first 100% transparent company in the world, since 2012, has just launched...

Eyecandy Smörgasbord feat. Blanck Mass, Mount Eerie, Astroid Boys, etc.

Ryan Hewett

Your mask is shifting.

Blanck Mass – Please

Your connection is in flux.

...
A CUT ABOVE SMALL “APOCALYPSE” DROP

Originally dropped in 2013, Antwerp founded brand A Cut Above just announced a small re-release of their “APOCALYPSE” collection.

The logo was reworked using the ‘Apocalypse Now’...

KNOTORYUS CATCHES UP WITH POLITICAL STREETWEAR BRAND HYPEPEACE TO DISCUSS THE NEW DESIGNS, PROTESTS & ANONYMITY  

On the dawn of the launch of their second release, this time in support of people affected by the Syrian crisis, we talk to...

FUTURA SET TO RELEASE WORLDWIDE UNIQLO COLLABORATION (FIRST PREVIEW)

It’s been announced that artist icon and KNOTORYUS all-time favourite FUTURA AKA Leonard ‘Lenny’ McGurr will be releasing a collection for global retailer Uniqlo‘s UT line in March and...

PALACE DROPS FULL SS17 LOOKBOOK 

After a proper tease, PALACE have kindly given us their complete lookbook (or as Lev likes to call it: DAS LOOKY BOOKY) for SS17. The...

KNOTORYUS BEST OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK WOMENSWEAR (AW17)

It should come to few people’s surprise that New York Fashion Week was outspokenly political for AW17. Designers with all kinds of diverse backgrounds...

MY PERSONAL SUPREME SS2017 TEN PRODUCT SELECTION

When I saw the new Supreme SS17 collection-reveal yesterday, I of course knew immediately that you’ll definitely catch me outside in head-to-toe all-over-Obama-on-wax-print, but...

LET’S TALK ABOUT WOLFGANG TILLMANS AHEAD OF HIS EXPO AT TATE MODERN

German-born artist and photographer Wolfgang Tillmans creates images that are instantly arresting in their intimacy. Moments congealed in time, that you feel priviliged to...

RAF SIMONS DEBUTS FIRST COLLECTION FOR CALVIN KLEIN (ALL THE LOOKS + REVIEW & SOUNDTRACK)

Today at 10 AM local time, Raf Simons and Creative Director Pieter Mulier introduced us to the new Calvin Klein Collection at New York...

BROMANCE RECORDS ANNOUNCES END WITH SPECIAL MIX

Well this sucks.

Here’s the official statement released on the Bromance Facebook page 5 minutes ago:

“We’ve been here together for five years, delivered about fifty...

KNOTORYUS CHECKS IN WITH DESIGNERS MARIE-SOPHIE BEINKE, EMMANUEL A. RYNGAERT & SCHUELLER DE WAAL AHEAD OF THE ACT! CUT! PLAY! FASHION FILM SCREENING

When I was 15, I saw my first fashion film. It was a Prada feature named ‘Thunder Perfect Mind’, directed by Ridley & Jordan...

YOUR FEBRUARY WOMEN’S AW17 SHOWS CHECKLIST

Simone Rocha SS17 Are your eyelashes fastened? Did you manage to sneak in a gulp of air in between shows? Because there’s no getting off...

RAF SIMONS SUBTLE #RESIST AND HIS CALVIN KLEIN SS17 AMERICAN CLASSICS CAMPAIGN

I’ve pondered this a couple of times: how does signing a longterm contract and moving to a new country feel if you made this decision during a legendary time when the first black president...