JOIN KNOTORYUS AT “MOMU PRESENTS GAME CHANGERS”


Posted on January 26th, by Dominique in art, magazine, style. 2 comments

GameChangers_MoMu_Antwerp_CommeDesGarcons_MarkSegal

While the fashion world is currently blue in the face awaiting Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia’s first Balenciaga collection in March, it’s perfect timing for MoMu to remind us all who the original shape maker was. With their latest exhibition “Game Changers – Reinventing the 20th century silhouette” the prestigious Antwerp Fashion Museum focuses on Cristóbal Balenciaga’s radical turnover of the constricted female silhouette in the 20s and 30s of the last century and the ongoing change he inspired in fashion.

When everyone else was giving you hourglass body-ody-ody, Balenciaga did a Basque shrug and turned the game around by adding liberating shape and architectural volume to his designs. Royalty lined up and people actually risked their safety travelling to Europe during WWII to book a Balenciaga appointment. You know that would’ve been me dodging roadblocks and checkpoints if Cristóbal had a 4PM slot. With age, his genius became even more apparent through his ‘balloon’ and ‘sack’ dresses and the marvels he created for society clients such as green-fingered Listerine heiress Bunny Mellon.

1967_BalenciagaArchives_Momu_Gamechangers

(Image : Balenciaga archive 1967 black gazar ‘rose’ dress and cape)

With inspiration stemming from Japan and its delicate kimonos, likeminded icons of Balenciaga’s time followed suit – with French designers Paul Poiret, Gabrielle Chanel and Balenciaga’s mentor Madeleine Vionnet pushing the frock freedom frontiers. They each reimagined what femininity was supposed to look like in their own manner and paved the way for many present-day designer greats to take it to the next level. Off top, images of Issey Miyake’s billowing pleats, Iris Van Herpen’s laser-cut exoskeletons and Yohji Yamamoto’s Nick Knight-shot red voluminous coats spring to mind. You’d also be hard-pressed to locate a more gifted modern master of shape than Rei Kawakubo at Comme Des Garçons.Comme des Garcons Women ready to wear 1997 summer photo by Guy Marineau

(Image : Yannis Vlamos)

The exhibit will display 100 unique couture and prêt-à-porter archive pieces by Balenciaga, Poiret, Vionnet, Chanel, Issey Miyake, Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Maison Martin Margiela.

To top it off with an exclusive tidbit: the expo will also debut an exciting digital project involving German-born, Antwerp-educated image maker Daniel Sannwald (who made his Dazed debut at 24 and has since been racking up ace features, including M.I.A.’s “Matangi” album cover) and Belgian creative supernova / model great Hannelore Knuts.HanneloreKnuts_CommedesGarçonsTwin

(Above image : Hannelore Knuts for Twin by Amy Troost – Fashion editor : Alastair McKimm)M.I.A._DanielSannwald_Matangi

(above image : M.I.A. by Daniel Sannwald

So get ready to don your most dramatic, long-trained outfit when visiting the exhibition. MoMu’s wooden steps are perfect for a look-back-over-the-shoulder ascending moment. Cristóbal would have wanted you to.

Game Changers – Reinventing the 20th-century silhouette

18/03/2016 – 14/08/2016

MoMu – Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp

Nationalestraat 28, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium

T: +32 3 470 27 70, [email protected]www.momu.be

Tickets: €8 / €6 (reduction) / €3 (18-26) / free (-18)

“Game Changers – Reinventing the 20th century silhouette” poster image :

Comme des Garçons AW12-13 by Mark Segal – graphic design by Paul Boudens

Words by Immi Abraham.

Related Posts with Thumbnails



Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Connect with Facebook



KNOTORYUS TALKS TO DIRECTOR/CURATOR KAAT DEBO ABOUT THE MIND OF MARTIN MARGIELA

(Hermès Autumn-Winter 2002) 

One of our favourite museums in the world, MoMu, the institution that is housed in the same building as the Royal Academy of...

BALENCIAGA SS17 UNOFFICIAL DIRECTOR’S CUT + SEASON TOP 3

Photographer Harley Weir gave us the Balenciaga SS17 drama that we are compelled to mimic every time there’s a monochrome curtain in sight. Dare...

KENDRICK LAMAR RELEASES “THE HEART PART 4”, PUTS THE INDUSTRY ON NOTICE

Kendrick Lamar has dropped his first single of 2017 and Black Twitter/every other rapper currently working has been left aquiver. “The Heart Part 4”...

BLONDEY MCCOY’S ‘THAMES’ SS17 COLLECTION IS WHAT WE NEED RIGHT NOW

Thames is just it. The SS17 lookbook for artist, designer and Palace Wayward Boys Choir original Blondey McCoy’s Thames has come at the right time. The brand...

DISCOVER ART BRUT AT ALICE GALLERY’S “BRUT?” EXHIBITION AND MIMA

Today marks the one-year anniversary of the gruesome Brussels attacks, and we collectively hold the people whose lives were irreversibly affected in our thoughts....

KNOTORYUS TALKS TO VJEZE FUR & PERRE VAN DEN BRINK AKA TRATLEHNER

(Image: Perre van den Brink & Freddy Tratlehner at Avenue © Kelly Fober)

The morning I’m interviewing the two creative polymaths behind TRATLEHNER, the Amsterdam-based clothing label that...

LET’S TALK ABOUT THE NEW SOULWAX ALBUM “FROM DEEWEE”

With their first studio effort in 12 (!) years burning a hole in whichever digital port much-anticipated releases are stocked in, brothers Stephen and...

WATCH ARCA – ‘REVERIE’
An almost uncomfortably intimate and tender exploration of desire, death, self-doubt and the beauty of owning your struggle. Directed by Jesse Kanda.
“DISOBEDIENT BODIES”: J.W. ANDERSON CURATES THE HEPWORTH WAKEFIELD

Jonathan “J.W.” Anderson is a man of great taste and little limitations. That’s why every time anything new he has worked on surfaces; people...

LISTEN TO STUFF. – ‘STRATA’
Fans of Kaytranada, Karriem Riggins, BadBadNotGood will be chuffed with STUFF.
20 YEARS OF COLETTE: ALL THE FESTIVITIES + SPECIAL RELEASES

For 20 years now, OG concept store Colette Paris has assembled and concocted the best, most creative and most fun phenomena in fashion, music,...

PATTA SPRING/SUMMER 2017 LUGGAGE COLLECTION

I don’t know ’bout you but a little burgundy somehow makes my melanin pop a bit more (it’s science). As luck would have it, Patta...

LISTEN TO SOULWAX “MISSING WIRES”
Whatever you're dancing around these days (the truth, an awkward conversation, a bonfire of your current personal identity... these are just options), let it...
JOIN KNOTORYUS AT THE “I AM NOT YOUR NEGRO” PREMIERE IN BRUSSELS + TASCHEN RELEASES “THE FIRE NEXT TIME” BY JAMES BALDWIN

The eminent author, playwright, poet and social activist James Baldwin published a book named “The Fire Next Time” in 1963, which completely shifted the landscape...

THINGS TO BE HERE FOR: HAPPY INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY

Let’s celebrate being us by highlighting some of ours who represent.

Leah McSweeney, founder of  Married To The MOB, the OG streetwear brand for women, created this...