JOIN KNOTORYUS AT “MOMU PRESENTS GAME CHANGERS”


Posted on January 26th, by Dominique in art, magazine, style. 2 comments

GameChangers_MoMu_Antwerp_CommeDesGarcons_MarkSegal

While the fashion world is currently blue in the face awaiting Vetements’ Demna Gvasalia’s first Balenciaga collection in March, it’s perfect timing for MoMu to remind us all who the original shape maker was. With their latest exhibition “Game Changers – Reinventing the 20th century silhouette” the prestigious Antwerp Fashion Museum focuses on Cristóbal Balenciaga’s radical turnover of the constricted female silhouette in the 20s and 30s of the last century and the ongoing change he inspired in fashion.

When everyone else was giving you hourglass body-ody-ody, Balenciaga did a Basque shrug and turned the game around by adding liberating shape and architectural volume to his designs. Royalty lined up and people actually risked their safety travelling to Europe during WWII to book a Balenciaga appointment. You know that would’ve been me dodging roadblocks and checkpoints if Cristóbal had a 4PM slot. With age, his genius became even more apparent through his ‘balloon’ and ‘sack’ dresses and the marvels he created for society clients such as green-fingered Listerine heiress Bunny Mellon.

1967_BalenciagaArchives_Momu_Gamechangers

(Image : Balenciaga archive 1967 black gazar ‘rose’ dress and cape)

With inspiration stemming from Japan and its delicate kimonos, likeminded icons of Balenciaga’s time followed suit – with French designers Paul Poiret, Gabrielle Chanel and Balenciaga’s mentor Madeleine Vionnet pushing the frock freedom frontiers. They each reimagined what femininity was supposed to look like in their own manner and paved the way for many present-day designer greats to take it to the next level. Off top, images of Issey Miyake’s billowing pleats, Iris Van Herpen’s laser-cut exoskeletons and Yohji Yamamoto’s Nick Knight-shot red voluminous coats spring to mind. You’d also be hard-pressed to locate a more gifted modern master of shape than Rei Kawakubo at Comme Des Garçons.Comme des Garcons Women ready to wear 1997 summer photo by Guy Marineau

(Image : Yannis Vlamos)

The exhibit will display 100 unique couture and prêt-à-porter archive pieces by Balenciaga, Poiret, Vionnet, Chanel, Issey Miyake, Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Maison Martin Margiela.

To top it off with an exclusive tidbit: the expo will also debut an exciting digital project involving German-born, Antwerp-educated image maker Daniel Sannwald (who made his Dazed debut at 24 and has since been racking up ace features, including M.I.A.’s “Matangi” album cover) and Belgian creative supernova / model great Hannelore Knuts.HanneloreKnuts_CommedesGarçonsTwin

(Above image : Hannelore Knuts for Twin by Amy Troost – Fashion editor : Alastair McKimm)M.I.A._DanielSannwald_Matangi

(above image : M.I.A. by Daniel Sannwald

So get ready to don your most dramatic, long-trained outfit when visiting the exhibition. MoMu’s wooden steps are perfect for a look-back-over-the-shoulder ascending moment. Cristóbal would have wanted you to.

Game Changers – Reinventing the 20th-century silhouette

18/03/2016 – 14/08/2016

MoMu – Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp

Nationalestraat 28, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium

T: +32 3 470 27 70, [email protected]www.momu.be

Tickets: €8 / €6 (reduction) / €3 (18-26) / free (-18)

“Game Changers – Reinventing the 20th century silhouette” poster image :

Comme des Garçons AW12-13 by Mark Segal – graphic design by Paul Boudens

Words by Immi Abraham.

Related Posts with Thumbnails



Comments Closed

2 responses to “JOIN KNOTORYUS AT “MOMU PRESENTS GAME CHANGERS””

  1. […] another. Following the highs that included: “Dries Van Noten: Inspirations“, “Game Changers” and most recently the touching “Rik Wouters & the Private Utopia“, we are […]



EVERYTHING WE KNOW SO FAR ABOUT THE NEW HELMUT LANG

The long-awaited Helmut Lang revival is not just in the building; it took the elevator up and is impatiently rapping its fingers on a...

CALVIN KLEIN “205W39NYC” AW17 FULL CAMPAIGN

The new Calvin Klein “205W39NYC” campaign has descended and it’s a meta marvel. Shot by Raf Simons’ trusted friend and collaborator Willy Vanderperre, the ads...

NEW MUSIC TO BE HERE FOR

Mondays are for defining your week’s #mood and no better way than creating a new playlist. You need to be keeping your fingers occupied after...

A FIRST LOOK AT UNIQLO X J.W. ANDERSON AW17 (EVERY SINGLE PIECE)

British designer Jonathan Anderson is on a ramp-up to creating a personal megabrand and his previously teased collaboration with UNIQLO is sure to solidify...

MAKE-UP TO BE HERE FOR: PAT MCGRATH LABS “MATTETRANCE”

Pat McGrath MBE is perched comfortably on that legend status. Just thinking about those mid-2000s Dior Haute Couture make-up looks she used to create...

TAILOR YOUR WEEKEND: ART COMES FIRST LONDON POP-UP

Rebel souls Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh of sartorial lab Art Comes First have a new pop-up store up their immaculately-tailored sleeves and it’s here...

RAF SIMONS SS18 (ALL THE LOOKS + REVIEW)

Around 10PM on a New York summer Tuesday, Raf Simons debuted his SS18 collection at New York Fashion Week. After serving up an appetizer...

BLACK IN THE DAY: SNAPSHOTS OF BLACK BRITISH LIFE

We all have that incredible vintage Polaroid of our mother or father in an outfit that you’d steal in a heartbeat if they hadn’t...

KNOTORYUS BEST OF PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK (AW17)

It’s funny how all of my wildest fantasies somehow circle back to a couture appointment, but some psychologists would agree I don’t actually control...

A FIRST LOOK AT H&M STUDIO x COLETTE AW17 (EVERY SINGLE PIECE)

H&M Studio is getting the colette treatment for AW17 so the streets are about to get a whole lot more chouette. A total of...

BOLD MINDS SPEAK: JEFFERSON HACK FOR BREAD & BUTTER BY ZALANDO

Publishing pioneer, author, digital culture and fashion topliner, co-founder and editorial director of Dazed Media Jefferson Hack has a word for you and you’d...

ROMBAUT SS18: PARIS WHEN IT SIZZLES

There’s a specific, heady mix of satisfaction that takes over when you know your look is both sickening as well as completely sustainable. Fortunately,...

JAY-Z 4:44 CD IS NOW AVAILABLE FOR WORLDWIDE PRE-ORDER

Even after more than a dozen plays, it’s still pretty impossible for me to pick a favourite song from 4:44, the lyrical masterpiece JAY-Z dropped last...

KNOTORYUS TALKS TO BRECHT VANDENBROUCKE ABOUT ‘ART IS COMIC’ AT MIMA

Allow me to paint you a picture. The wildly talented visual artist and illustrator Brecht Vandenbroucke has had his work splashed over anything from...

WHAT KNOTORYUS SAW AT “SHOW 2017” THE HAGUE

The Royal Academy of Fine Art The Hague’s Fashion & Textile Department held its annual graduate show this weekend and you know we were...