WHAT KNOTORYUS SAW AT “SHOW2016” THE HAGUE


Posted on June 24th, by immi in magazine, style. 1 Comment

backstage_17
Woody ‘S-Gravemade (image: Nina Dancet)

If you hadn’t been all too aware of what the Royal Academy of Art The Hague’s Textile & Fashion Department has been putting out, allow us to formally introduce you. KNOTORYUS attended the annual graduate show “SHOW2016” and got up-close with the new wave of designers looking to make the industry ripple. Quenching!

Like its counterpart in Antwerp, the The Hague academy boasts a faculty roster any fashion student would be blessed to pick the brains of. With creative powers like department head Jurgi Persoons, original Antwerp Six member Marina YeePeter De Potter, Jan-Jan Van EsscheHilde Frunt and many others guiding their process, it is no wonder the outcome is noteworthy. From his own graduation in ’92 until shuttering his label in ’03, Jurgi Persoons played a vital part in keeping Antwerp fashion headstrong, irreverent and downright thrilling creating indelible imagery with Inge Grognard and Ronald Stoops. The legacy of his label has inspired many young designers in the generations following the Six so it was nothing but good news that Persoons was appointed to take the reigns of the The Hague Textile & Fashion programme in 2013.

SS1999I-2
(Graphic design: Paul Boudens for Jurgi Persoons SS99)

Thus, it should come to no one’s surprise that I threw my phone – and quite nearly a grape Fritz-Kola – on the floor scrambling to my feet as Persoons himself came round to shake our hands before the show and thanked us for our previous words as alarm buzzers blared “That Just Happened” through my skull.

“SHOW2016” was held in the Electriciteitsfabriek, an impressive venue – not without it’s mortally perilous rusty manholes and balustrades though – adding to the drama and #fashiondanger of the evening. We received a personal tour of the 8 graduates’ collections explained by the students themselves, 2 of which focused on textile design.

exposed_04
Yamuna Forzani (image: Nina Dancet)

exposed_01
Sarah Lauwaert (image: Nina Dancet)

What struck us most is how evident the amount of care Persoons has personally invested in his students is. Taking the time to personally introduce each graduate, more than once Persoons gave them the old stage coach arm crescendo, universal code for: “Speak up, kid! I want them to hear what you’ve got to say.” In a recent interview, Persoons stated he modeled The Hague after the Antwerp academy in the following way: “Ask yourself how you put your message out. Is it done in an accurate, current, innovative way? How do you take a stand? This drives the Antwerp department and to me, personally, those are also the important points.” Perhaps even more evidently so, the graduates were keen to step outside of their own universes and pick global issues as the focal point of their collections. We saw designs inspired by the declining environment, the effects of social media, the current state of cultural integration, hoarding, social constructs and gender. Every single collection had a clear message.

backstage_19
Jenske Sypkens Smit (image: Nina Dancet)

Particular favourites were pieces from the only Belgian graduate Sarah Lauwaert’s collection ‘I NEED TO BE PROTECTED’, whose blow-up neon trousers and top proved to be an instant photo magnet. Nadie Borggreve, who gave us a great purple cape moment, focused on the emotional concept of hoarding and themed each silhouette in a particular colour. Clear promise was also shown in Woody ‘S-Gravemade’s collection, drawing inspiration from the daily mesh of cultures The Netherlands contains and is enriched by.

If you enjoy looking a bit further and in less conventional places for a different kind of fashion pulse, you would do well keeping an eye on The Hague.

Woody 's-Gravemade
Woody ‘S-Gravemade (image: catwalkpictures.com)

Related Posts with Thumbnails



Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Connect with Facebook



KNOTORYUS TALKS TO DIRECTOR/CURATOR KAAT DEBO ABOUT THE MIND OF MARTIN MARGIELA

(Hermès Autumn-Winter 2002) 

One of our favourite museums in the world, MoMu, the institution that is housed in the same building as the Royal Academy of...

BALENCIAGA SS17 UNOFFICIAL DIRECTOR’S CUT + SEASON TOP 3

Photographer Harley Weir gave us the Balenciaga SS17 drama that we are compelled to mimic every time there’s a monochrome curtain in sight. Dare...

KENDRICK LAMAR RELEASES “THE HEART PART 4”, PUTS THE INDUSTRY ON NOTICE

Kendrick Lamar has dropped his first single of 2017 and Black Twitter/every other rapper currently working has been left aquiver. “The Heart Part 4”...

BLONDEY MCCOY’S ‘THAMES’ SS17 COLLECTION IS WHAT WE NEED RIGHT NOW

Thames is just it. The SS17 lookbook for artist, designer and Palace Wayward Boys Choir original Blondey McCoy’s Thames has come at the right time. The brand...

DISCOVER ART BRUT AT ALICE GALLERY’S “BRUT?” EXHIBITION AND MIMA

Today marks the one-year anniversary of the gruesome Brussels attacks, and we collectively hold the people whose lives were irreversibly affected in our thoughts....

KNOTORYUS TALKS TO VJEZE FUR & PERRE VAN DEN BRINK AKA TRATLEHNER

(Image: Perre van den Brink & Freddy Tratlehner at Avenue © Kelly Fober)

The morning I’m interviewing the two creative polymaths behind TRATLEHNER, the Amsterdam-based clothing label that...

LET’S TALK ABOUT THE NEW SOULWAX ALBUM “FROM DEEWEE”

With their first studio effort in 12 (!) years burning a hole in whichever digital port much-anticipated releases are stocked in, brothers Stephen and...

WATCH ARCA – ‘REVERIE’
An almost uncomfortably intimate and tender exploration of desire, death, self-doubt and the beauty of owning your struggle. Directed by Jesse Kanda.
“DISOBEDIENT BODIES”: J.W. ANDERSON CURATES THE HEPWORTH WAKEFIELD

Jonathan “J.W.” Anderson is a man of great taste and little limitations. That’s why every time anything new he has worked on surfaces; people...

LISTEN TO STUFF. – ‘STRATA’
Fans of Kaytranada, Karriem Riggins, BadBadNotGood will be chuffed with STUFF.
20 YEARS OF COLETTE: ALL THE FESTIVITIES + SPECIAL RELEASES

For 20 years now, OG concept store Colette Paris has assembled and concocted the best, most creative and most fun phenomena in fashion, music,...

PATTA SPRING/SUMMER 2017 LUGGAGE COLLECTION

I don’t know ’bout you but a little burgundy somehow makes my melanin pop a bit more (it’s science). As luck would have it, Patta...

LISTEN TO SOULWAX “MISSING WIRES”
Whatever you're dancing around these days (the truth, an awkward conversation, a bonfire of your current personal identity... these are just options), let it...
JOIN KNOTORYUS AT THE “I AM NOT YOUR NEGRO” PREMIERE IN BRUSSELS + TASCHEN RELEASES “THE FIRE NEXT TIME” BY JAMES BALDWIN

The eminent author, playwright, poet and social activist James Baldwin published a book named “The Fire Next Time” in 1963, which completely shifted the landscape...

THINGS TO BE HERE FOR: HAPPY INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY

Let’s celebrate being us by highlighting some of ours who represent.

Leah McSweeney, founder of  Married To The MOB, the OG streetwear brand for women, created this...