WHAT KNOTORYUS SAW AT “SHOW2016” THE HAGUE


Posted on June 24th, by immi in magazine, style. 1 Comment

backstage_17
Woody ‘S-Gravemade (image: Nina Dancet)

If you hadn’t been all too aware of what the Royal Academy of Art The Hague’s Textile & Fashion Department has been putting out, allow us to formally introduce you. KNOTORYUS attended the annual graduate show “SHOW2016” and got up-close with the new wave of designers looking to make the industry ripple. Quenching!

Like its counterpart in Antwerp, the The Hague academy boasts a faculty roster any fashion student would be blessed to pick the brains of. With creative powers like department head Jurgi Persoons, original Antwerp Six member Marina YeePeter De Potter, Jan-Jan Van EsscheHilde Frunt and many others guiding their process, it is no wonder the outcome is noteworthy. From his own graduation in ’92 until shuttering his label in ’03, Jurgi Persoons played a vital part in keeping Antwerp fashion headstrong, irreverent and downright thrilling creating indelible imagery with Inge Grognard and Ronald Stoops. The legacy of his label has inspired many young designers in the generations following the Six so it was nothing but good news that Persoons was appointed to take the reigns of the The Hague Textile & Fashion programme in 2013.

SS1999I-2
(Graphic design: Paul Boudens for Jurgi Persoons SS99)

Thus, it should come to no one’s surprise that I threw my phone – and quite nearly a grape Fritz-Kola – on the floor scrambling to my feet as Persoons himself came round to shake our hands before the show and thanked us for our previous words as alarm buzzers blared “That Just Happened” through my skull.

“SHOW2016” was held in the Electriciteitsfabriek, an impressive venue – not without it’s mortally perilous rusty manholes and balustrades though – adding to the drama and #fashiondanger of the evening. We received a personal tour of the 8 graduates’ collections explained by the students themselves, 2 of which focused on textile design.

exposed_04
Yamuna Forzani (image: Nina Dancet)

exposed_01
Sarah Lauwaert (image: Nina Dancet)

What struck us most is how evident the amount of care Persoons has personally invested in his students is. Taking the time to personally introduce each graduate, more than once Persoons gave them the old stage coach arm crescendo, universal code for: “Speak up, kid! I want them to hear what you’ve got to say.” In a recent interview, Persoons stated he modeled The Hague after the Antwerp academy in the following way: “Ask yourself how you put your message out. Is it done in an accurate, current, innovative way? How do you take a stand? This drives the Antwerp department and to me, personally, those are also the important points.” Perhaps even more evidently so, the graduates were keen to step outside of their own universes and pick global issues as the focal point of their collections. We saw designs inspired by the declining environment, the effects of social media, the current state of cultural integration, hoarding, social constructs and gender. Every single collection had a clear message.

backstage_19
Jenske Sypkens Smit (image: Nina Dancet)

Particular favourites were pieces from the only Belgian graduate Sarah Lauwaert’s collection ‘I NEED TO BE PROTECTED’, whose blow-up neon trousers and top proved to be an instant photo magnet. Nadie Borggreve, who gave us a great purple cape moment, focused on the emotional concept of hoarding and themed each silhouette in a particular colour. Clear promise was also shown in Woody ‘S-Gravemade’s collection, drawing inspiration from the daily mesh of cultures The Netherlands contains and is enriched by.

If you enjoy looking a bit further and in less conventional places for a different kind of fashion pulse, you would do well keeping an eye on The Hague.

Woody 's-Gravemade
Woody ‘S-Gravemade (image: catwalkpictures.com)

Related Posts with Thumbnails



Comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Connect with Facebook



A CUT ABOVE SMALL “APOCALYPSE” DROP

Originally dropped in 2013, Antwerp founded brand A Cut Above just announced a small re-release of their “APOCALYPSE” collection.

The logo was reworked using the ‘Apocalypse Now’...

KNOTORYUS CATCHES UP WITH POLITICAL STREETWEAR BRAND HYPEPEACE TO DISCUSS THE NEW DESIGNS, PROTESTS & ANONYMITY  

On the dawn of the launch of their second release, this time in support of people affected by the Syrian crisis, we talk to...

FUTURA SET TO RELEASE WORLDWIDE UNIQLO COLLABORATION (FIRST PREVIEW)

It’s been announced that artist icon and KNOTORYUS all-time favourite FUTURA AKA Leonard ‘Lenny’ McGurr will be releasing a collection for global retailer Uniqlo‘s UT line in March and...

PALACE DROPS FULL SS17 LOOKBOOK 

After a proper tease, PALACE have kindly given us their complete lookbook (or as Lev likes to call it: DAS LOOKY BOOKY) for SS17. The...

KNOTORYUS BEST OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK WOMENSWEAR (AW17)

It should come to few people’s surprise that New York Fashion Week was outspokenly political for AW17. Designers with all kinds of diverse backgrounds...

MY PERSONAL SUPREME SS2017 TEN PRODUCT SELECTION

When I saw the new Supreme SS17 collection-reveal yesterday, I of course knew immediately that you’ll definitely catch me outside in head-to-toe all-over-Obama-on-wax-print, but...

LET’S TALK ABOUT WOLFGANG TILLMANS AHEAD OF HIS EXPO AT TATE MODERN

German-born artist and photographer Wolfgang Tillmans creates images that are instantly arresting in their intimacy. Moments congealed in time, that you feel priviliged to...

RAF SIMONS DEBUTS FIRST COLLECTION FOR CALVIN KLEIN (ALL THE LOOKS + REVIEW & SOUNDTRACK)

Today at 10 AM local time, Raf Simons and Creative Director Pieter Mulier introduced us to the new Calvin Klein Collection at New York...

BROMANCE RECORDS ANNOUNCES END WITH SPECIAL MIX

Well this sucks.

Here’s the official statement released on the Bromance Facebook page 5 minutes ago:

“We’ve been here together for five years, delivered about fifty...

KNOTORYUS CHECKS IN WITH DESIGNERS MARIE-SOPHIE BEINKE, EMMANUEL A. RYNGAERT & SCHUELLER DE WAAL AHEAD OF THE ACT! CUT! PLAY! FASHION FILM SCREENING

When I was 15, I saw my first fashion film. It was a Prada feature named ‘Thunder Perfect Mind’, directed by Ridley & Jordan...

YOUR FEBRUARY WOMEN’S AW17 SHOWS CHECKLIST

Simone Rocha SS17 Are your eyelashes fastened? Did you manage to sneak in a gulp of air in between shows? Because there’s no getting off...

RAF SIMONS SUBTLE #RESIST AND HIS CALVIN KLEIN SS17 AMERICAN CLASSICS CAMPAIGN

I’ve pondered this a couple of times: how does signing a longterm contract and moving to a new country feel if you made this decision during a legendary time when the first black president...

HAPPY BIRTHDAY J DILLA (NEW TRIBUTE MIX)
R.I.P. Jay Dee. Donuts forever.
CHANCE THE RAPPER DROPS “SAME DRUGS” VIDEO (WATCH)

Off the perpetually excellent (and Grammy-nominated) mixtape ‘Coloring Book’, Chance The Rapper surprise-dropped an ace video for “Same Drugs”, directed by Jake Schreier.

Joined by the ‘Magnificent...

STRANGER TUNES
Three recent releases and three ways to deal with reality at its most jagged.