WHAT KNOTORYUS SAW AT “SHOW2016” THE HAGUE


Posted on June 24th, by immi in magazine, style. 1 Comment

backstage_17
Woody ‘S-Gravemade (image: Nina Dancet)

If you hadn’t been all too aware of what the Royal Academy of Art The Hague’s Textile & Fashion Department has been putting out, allow us to formally introduce you. KNOTORYUS attended the annual graduate show “SHOW2016” and got up-close with the new wave of designers looking to make the industry ripple. Quenching!

Like its counterpart in Antwerp, the The Hague academy boasts a faculty roster any fashion student would be blessed to pick the brains of. With creative powers like department head Jurgi Persoons, original Antwerp Six member Marina YeePeter De Potter, Jan-Jan Van EsscheHilde Frunt and many others guiding their process, it is no wonder the outcome is noteworthy. From his own graduation in ’92 until shuttering his label in ’03, Jurgi Persoons played a vital part in keeping Antwerp fashion headstrong, irreverent and downright thrilling creating indelible imagery with Inge Grognard and Ronald Stoops. The legacy of his label has inspired many young designers in the generations following the Six so it was nothing but good news that Persoons was appointed to take the reigns of the The Hague Textile & Fashion programme in 2013.

SS1999I-2
(Graphic design: Paul Boudens for Jurgi Persoons SS99)

Thus, it should come to no one’s surprise that I threw my phone – and quite nearly a grape Fritz-Kola – on the floor scrambling to my feet as Persoons himself came round to shake our hands before the show and thanked us for our previous words as alarm buzzers blared “That Just Happened” through my skull.

“SHOW2016” was held in the Electriciteitsfabriek, an impressive venue – not without it’s mortally perilous rusty manholes and balustrades though – adding to the drama and #fashiondanger of the evening. We received a personal tour of the 8 graduates’ collections explained by the students themselves, 2 of which focused on textile design.

exposed_04
Yamuna Forzani (image: Nina Dancet)

exposed_01
Sarah Lauwaert (image: Nina Dancet)

What struck us most is how evident the amount of care Persoons has personally invested in his students is. Taking the time to personally introduce each graduate, more than once Persoons gave them the old stage coach arm crescendo, universal code for: “Speak up, kid! I want them to hear what you’ve got to say.” In a recent interview, Persoons stated he modeled The Hague after the Antwerp academy in the following way: “Ask yourself how you put your message out. Is it done in an accurate, current, innovative way? How do you take a stand? This drives the Antwerp department and to me, personally, those are also the important points.” Perhaps even more evidently so, the graduates were keen to step outside of their own universes and pick global issues as the focal point of their collections. We saw designs inspired by the declining environment, the effects of social media, the current state of cultural integration, hoarding, social constructs and gender. Every single collection had a clear message.

backstage_19
Jenske Sypkens Smit (image: Nina Dancet)

Particular favourites were pieces from the only Belgian graduate Sarah Lauwaert’s collection ‘I NEED TO BE PROTECTED’, whose blow-up neon trousers and top proved to be an instant photo magnet. Nadie Borggreve, who gave us a great purple cape moment, focused on the emotional concept of hoarding and themed each silhouette in a particular colour. Clear promise was also shown in Woody ‘S-Gravemade’s collection, drawing inspiration from the daily mesh of cultures The Netherlands contains and is enriched by.

If you enjoy looking a bit further and in less conventional places for a different kind of fashion pulse, you would do well keeping an eye on The Hague.

Woody 's-Gravemade
Woody ‘S-Gravemade (image: catwalkpictures.com)

Related Posts with Thumbnails



Comments Closed

One response to “WHAT KNOTORYUS SAW AT “SHOW2016” THE HAGUE”

  1. […] ho-hum presentation. In tandem with DUST magazine, the feted Belgian designer and KABK Den Haag fashion department head created a capsule collection consisting of cut-out tops, print tees, reconstructed sweatshirts and […]



TETHERED TO THE EARTH: AMANDLA STENBERG’S “YOU ARE HERE” (WATCH)

Amandla Stenberg has no intentions to not be brilliant, as proven by the meditative short film she directed, scored, illustrated and edited for our benefit....

PATTA AW17 (FULL LOOKBOOK)

For a much-needed dose of self-care, look no further than the city of Amsterdam: the good team at Patta will have a new fit...

COMING UP: “DAVID LACHAPELLE: AFTER THE DELUGE” EXPO AT BAM MONS

There could hardly be a better image to sum up the parts of American star photographer and director David LaChapelle than the one of...

JOIN KNOTORYUS AT “POWERMASK CURATED BY WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK”

If Walter Van Beirendonck AW17 is still on your mind, I get it (and you should get thee to the stores)! What made that show linger...

NIKE SNEAKRS APP NOW AVAILABLE IN EUROPE

If you have any sneakerhead in you, prepare for a wide grin to be painted across that face. The Nike SNEAKRS app (known as...

PALACE GIVES YOUR WALLET A HEADACHE (FULL AW17 PREVIEW + LOOKBOOK)

If you were contemplating whether your denim obsession would carry on until winter ’17, wonder no more. Palace AW17 and its “Palace Jeans” or...

INTRODUCING ARKET: THE NEW MARKET FOR ESSENTIALS CREATED BY H&M

ARKET, H&M Group’s newest descendant, is ready to step to the fore now. The brand’s name harks back to its core idea of being...

KELELA QUAKES STANS WITH DEBUT ALBUM DATE + FIRST SINGLE (LISTEN)

If you’ve been hitting rewind (you know what I did there) on Kelela’s breakout EP’s “Hallucinogen” and “Cut 4 Me” for the past four...

SOMETHING TO BE PROUD OF: BELGIAN FASHION & ANTWERP PRIDE AT MOMU

In a first ever collaboration, Antwerp Pride, Antwerp Queer Arts Festival and MoMu will present the installation “Something To Be Proud Of: Belgian Fashion...

ART & THERAPY: BLONDEY MCCOY’S “US AND CHEM” EXPO

Being a terrific skater, instrumental Palace stalwart, inspiring creative director and philanthropist just won’t cut it for Blondey McCoy. He happens to make touching works...

EVERYTHING WE KNOW SO FAR ABOUT THE NEW HELMUT LANG

The long-awaited Helmut Lang revival is not just in the building; it took the elevator up and is impatiently rapping its fingers on a...

CALVIN KLEIN “205W39NYC” AW17 FULL CAMPAIGN

The new Calvin Klein “205W39NYC” campaign has descended and it’s a meta marvel. Shot by Raf Simons’ trusted friend and collaborator Willy Vanderperre, the ads...

NEW MUSIC TO BE HERE FOR

Mondays are for defining your week’s #mood and no better way than creating a new playlist. You need to be keeping your fingers occupied after...

A FIRST LOOK AT UNIQLO X J.W. ANDERSON AW17 (EVERY SINGLE PIECE)

British designer Jonathan Anderson is on a ramp-up to creating a personal megabrand and his previously teased collaboration with UNIQLO is sure to solidify...

MAKE-UP TO BE HERE FOR: PAT MCGRATH LABS “MATTETRANCE”

Pat McGrath MBE is perched comfortably on that legend status. Just thinking about those mid-2000s Dior Haute Couture make-up looks she used to create...