your First Source for Fashion, Music, Art, Culture, Design, Content, Communication and Creation http://www.knotoryus.com You couldn't ketchup even if we handed you the tomatoes Wed, 16 Aug 2017 15:31:41 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.7.5 PATTA AW17 (FULL LOOKBOOK) http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24408/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24408/#respond Wed, 16 Aug 2017 10:02:19 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24408 For a much-needed dose of self-care, look no further than the city of Amsterdam: the good team at Patta will have a new fit ready for you at the end of the week. Dropping August 18, Patta AW17 is here to cover you in warm hues, fabrics and a foreboding Vincent van de Waal Uncle Sam print. The collection includes pieces like a corduroy two-piece, fleece zip-ups, puffa jackets, striped knits, logo windbreakers, bags and accessories. All in autumnal shades of olive, burgundy, mustard and caramel with pops of black and bright red.    The first pieces of AW17 will be available in-store at Patta Amsterdam, London and online on Friday, August 18. Other Patta retailers worldwide will be stocked in the weeks to follow.

If you’re quick, a few items from recent Patta ... Read More »]]>


For a much-needed dose of self-care, look no further than the city of Amsterdam: the good team at Patta will have a new fit ready for you at the end of the week. Dropping August 18, Patta AW17 is here to cover you in warm hues, fabrics and a foreboding Vincent van de Waal Uncle Sam print.


The collection includes pieces like a corduroy two-piece, fleece zip-ups, puffa jackets, striped knits, logo windbreakers, bags and accessories. All in autumnal shades of olive, burgundy, mustard and caramel with pops of black and bright red.
  
The first pieces of AW17 will be available in-store at Patta Amsterdam, London and online on Friday, August 18. Other Patta retailers worldwide will be stocked in the weeks to follow.

If you’re quick, a few items from recent Patta collabs with festival Dekmantel & Asics are still up for grabs on their online store.

Lookbook images: Menno Kok
Models: Joao & Mels

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COMING UP: “DAVID LACHAPELLE: AFTER THE DELUGE” EXPO AT BAM MONS http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24389/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24389/#respond Mon, 14 Aug 2017 14:13:14 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24389 There could hardly be a better image to sum up the parts of American star photographer and director David LaChapelle than the one of larger-than-life club diva Amanda Lepore evoking Liz Taylor. In a new expo opening at BAM (Beaux-Arts Mons) on October 14, her cult glory is all yours to admire. Over 100 David LaChapelle artworks will be on display, from fine art photographs to pop and rock music videos he directed and large format blow-ups. When you think of David LaChappelle, you envision surrealism drenched in eroticism, satire and eye-watering colour (ten-year-old me still has pink flares burned into his retina from watching Mariah in that jumpsuit for the “Loverboy” video). You think of Lavazza ads, Naomi Playboy spreads and Kardashian Khristmas Kards. We know (and love or hate) his oil-coated nudes and bombastic celebrity depictions; but this expo will show a lesser ... Read More »]]>


There could hardly be a better image to sum up the parts of American star photographer and director David LaChapelle than the one of larger-than-life club diva Amanda Lepore evoking Liz Taylor. In a new expo opening at BAM (Beaux-Arts Mons) on October 14, her cult glory is all yours to admire. Over 100 David LaChapelle artworks will be on display, from fine art photographs to pop and rock music videos he directed and large format blow-ups.

When you think of David LaChappelle, you envision surrealism drenched in eroticism, satire and eye-watering colour (ten-year-old me still has pink flares burned into his retina from watching Mariah in that jumpsuit for the “Loverboy” video). You think of Lavazza ads, Naomi Playboy spreads and Kardashian Khristmas Kards. We know (and love or hate) his oil-coated nudes and bombastic celebrity depictions; but this expo will show a lesser seen side of LaChapelle that I’m keen to explore. BAM is where KNOTORYUS curated a fashion pop-up exhibit within the museum’s 2013 expo dedicated to Andy Warhol – who invited LaChapelle to shoot for Interview magazine when the latter was about 20 years old – so it’s exciting to head back to the former European Capital of Culture.

Naomi Campbell for Playboy by David LaChapelle (1999)

“Archangel Michael: And No Message Could Have Been Any Clearer” (2009) 

Curated by seasoned pro Gianni Mercurio (curator of the 2013 BAM Warhol expo, author of “The Jean-Michel Basquiat Show” with Glenn O’Brien and Italy’s foremost connoisseur of American modern art), “After The Deluge” has been divided into two sections and separate floors. The years up until 2007 are represented on one side, containing some of the pieces that made his name which focus on the human, hedonistic side of his art. The New LaChapelle (with works since ‘07, created up until this year) will take over the second part. A dramatic, biblical split in time which only seems fitting.

“After The Deluge” (2007)

“Adam and Eve” (2017)

“Seismic Shift” (2012)

The reason behind that division is a personal one. When David LaChapelle took a private viewing tour of the Sistine Chapel in 2006, lore has it the photographer-provocateur felt a need to change. To literally walk away and hole up on a Pacific Ocean island. “After The Deluge” is what came out of that voyage, a seven-metre behemoth inspired by Michelangelo’s “The Deluge”, which spawned a new series of works. Images of weather-torn galleries, overgrown gas stations and tumbling planes show a world of self-induced post-apocalyptic eerie glam that only a LaChapelle could convey. The message may have gotten more conceptual, but the gloss and drama will never be watered down.

“Aristocracy Two” (2014)

“Gas Shell” (2012)

“Landscape: King’s Dominion” (2013)

David LaChapelle: After The Deluge

October 14 2017 – February 25 2018
Tuesdays – Sundays (10 AM – 6 PM)

BAM (Beaux-Arts Mons)
Rue Neuve 8
7000 Mons
Belgium

More info via www.bam.mons.be and Facebook.

Top image: “My Own Liz” (2002)

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JOIN KNOTORYUS AT “POWERMASK CURATED BY WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK” http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24355/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24355/#respond Thu, 10 Aug 2017 11:58:44 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24355 If Walter Van Beirendonck AW17 is still on your mind, I get it (and you should get thee to the stores)! What made that show linger on the brain – and I also loved SS18 – was the hypnotic passage of Austrian band SEIDÄ PASS and their demonic masks paired with the models in their silk-covered faces. You know Walter Van Beirendonck loves a good mask, so it’s only natural that in a new expo opening at Wereldmuseum Rotterdam on September 1 called “POWERMASK”, the icon of Belgian design has curated a selection of art that explores the infinite and mystical functions of masks. Walter Van Beirendonck AW89  Walter Van Beirendonck AW11 (image: Ronald Stoops)

Since the genesis of his namesake brand, Walter Van Beirendonck has involved masks in his collections, from the AW89 “HARD BEAT” bright balaclavas to the transformative pierced-nose lambskin specimens at AW12. Masks add ... Read More »]]>


If Walter Van Beirendonck AW17 is still on your mind, I get it (and you should get thee to the stores)! What made that show linger on the brain – and I also loved SS18 – was the hypnotic passage of Austrian band SEIDÄ PASS and their demonic masks paired with the models in their silk-covered faces. You know Walter Van Beirendonck loves a good mask, so it’s only natural that in a new expo opening at Wereldmuseum Rotterdam on September 1 called “POWERMASK”, the icon of Belgian design has curated a selection of art that explores the infinite and mystical functions of masks.

Walter Van Beirendonck AW89
 Walter Van Beirendonck AW11 (image: Ronald Stoops)

Since the genesis of his namesake brand, Walter Van Beirendonck has involved masks in his collections, from the AW89 “HARD BEAT” bright balaclavas to the transformative pierced-nose lambskin specimens at AW12. Masks add dimension and atmosphere that few other items of clothing can. They conceal but project at the same time. As a curator, Walter Van Beirendonck selected over 125 masks from the Wereldmuseum archive to investigate the use of masks throughout history: as supernatural, ritualistic, and inspirational items. The expo also delves into the role of the mask in modern art and contemporary high fashion by placing them side by side with art, photography installations and fashion by the greatest artists of modern times. “POWERMASK” features works from Viktor & Rolf, Jean Paul Gaultier, Keith Haring, Diane Arbus, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Louise Bourgeois, Brian Kenny, Martin Margiela and Dirk Van Saene plus many more. I’ll just grab my Alexander McQueen “Horn of Plenty” paper cut-out mask and meet you there.

Walter Van Beirendonck AW12

An accompanying book “POWERMASK – The Power of Masks” with contributions by Walter Van Beirendonck, Kaat Debo, Chris Dercon, Alexandra Van Dongen, Clémence Mathieu, Valentine Plisnier, Jan Willem Sieburgh, Fanny Wonu Veys and Sonja Wijs will be published on August 29.

The book, brandishing the Sally Wassink piece “Postcard (after Hoch)”, contains 240 pages and its graphic design was created by longtime Walter collaborator Paul Boudens. A first look reveals beautiful juxtapositions of inspiration meeting art by the biggest names. We’re talking Giorgio de Chirico, James Ensor, Craig Green, Stephen Jones, Inez van Lamsweerde, Robert Mapplethorpe, Christophe Coppens, Gustave Courbet, Paul McCarthy, Niels Peeraer, Pablo Picasso, Cindy Sherman, John Stezaker and many more.
 James Ensor “Skeleton arrests masks” (1891)
 Antilope mask, Kurumba, Burkina Faso (20th century) – Charles Fréger, Cerbul, Romania, (2010-2011)

 Wildeman, Schembartbuch, Neurenberg (circa 1590) – Charles Fréger, Orso di Jelsi, Italy, (2010-2011)

Face mask, Simalungun, Dolog Silou – W.&L.T. (Wild & Lethal Trash), Paradise Pleasure Productions, AW95 (image: Ronald Stoops)

Face mask, Lwalwa – Viktor & Rolf SS16

Louise Bourgeois, Untitled (2002) – Dirk Van Saene, AW16 (image: Ronald Stoops)

Pre-order the POWERMASK book here.

“POWERMASK CURATED BY WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK”
September 1 2017 – January 7 2018
Open Tuesday – Sunday (10.30 AM – 5.30 PM)

Wereldmuseum Rotterdam
Willemskade 25
3016 DM Rotterdam
The Netherlands

Get tickets and info here.

Images: Wereldmuseum, Walter Van Beirendonck & Vogue Runway

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NIKE SNEAKRS APP NOW AVAILABLE IN EUROPE http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24340/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24340/#respond Tue, 08 Aug 2017 10:52:29 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24340 If you have any sneakerhead in you, prepare for a wide grin to be painted across that face. The Nike SNEAKRS app (known as SNKRS across the Atlantic) is now available in 19 European countries and 14 languages. The app curates Nike’s legend status sneaker selection and acts as your go-to for official product launch dates as well as a mobile store to nab hard-to-find models like the Air Jordan XI Space Jam.

To celebrate launch week, a selection of already sold-out and eagerly coveted items like the SF AF-1 MID or Air More Uptempo will be made available. Nike SF AF-1 MID (Belgian drop on August 11) Nike Air More Uptempo (Belgian drop on August 12)

To top it off, flash drops of the Air Jordan 1 Royal and Air Jordan XI Space Jam, as well as cult classics like the Nike Trainer and Air Max 97 ... Read More »]]>


If you have any sneakerhead in you, prepare for a wide grin to be painted across that face. The Nike SNEAKRS app (known as SNKRS across the Atlantic) is now available in 19 European countries and 14 languages. The app curates Nike’s legend status sneaker selection and acts as your go-to for official product launch dates as well as a mobile store to nab hard-to-find models like the Air Jordan XI Space Jam.

To celebrate launch week, a selection of already sold-out and eagerly coveted items like the SF AF-1 MID or Air More Uptempo will be made available.

Nike SF AF-1 MID (Belgian drop on August 11)

Nike Air More Uptempo (Belgian drop on August 12)

To top it off, flash drops of the Air Jordan 1 Royal and Air Jordan XI Space Jam, as well as cult classics like the Nike Trainer and Air Max 97 as well as the Air Vapormax and other special editions will roll through the SNEAKRS app and online as from August 18. You’re going to want to hit refresh on those.

Air Jordan XI Space Jam

Find the Nike SNEAKRS app on iTunes and Google Play today.

Full list of new countries served: Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Poland, Portugal and the United Kingdom.

Images: Nike

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PALACE GIVES YOUR WALLET A HEADACHE (FULL AW17 PREVIEW + LOOKBOOK) http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24218/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24218/#respond Mon, 07 Aug 2017 10:48:04 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24218 If you were contemplating whether your denim obsession would carry on until winter ’17, wonder no more. Palace AW17 and its “Palace Jeans” or “PJs” will tip you over the scale. With the new collection launching in-store on August 11 and online on August 18, you’re going to want to gather your coins from your jogger pockets. It’s just as Lev says: “JESUS SAVES. THEN SPENDS IT ALL ON PALACE”.     Looking at the full first preview, the nods to the iconic Versace Jeans Couture era are dead winners plus the “Palace Club House” sweats and accessories on top of the trusty shell suits and great prints (“Palacetamol”. I mean.) bind the AW17 collection into another exciting Palace moment. Do yourself a favour and check out all of the product descriptions on the Palace website or you’ll never know your new ... Read More »]]>


If you were contemplating whether your denim obsession would carry on until winter ’17, wonder no more. Palace AW17 and its “Palace Jeans” or “PJs” will tip you over the scale. With the new collection launching in-store on August 11 and online on August 18, you’re going to want to gather your coins from your jogger pockets. It’s just as Lev says: “JESUS SAVES. THEN SPENDS IT ALL ON PALACE”.
   
Looking at the full first preview, the nods to the iconic Versace Jeans Couture era are dead winners plus the “Palace Club House” sweats and accessories on top of the trusty shell suits and great prints (“Palacetamol”. I mean.) bind the AW17 collection into another exciting Palace moment. Do yourself a favour and check out all of the product descriptions on the Palace website or you’ll never know your new waxer jacket can be used as “radiators to keep McDon’s delivery hot” but the striped shirt tells you that the delivery was “cold and shit” in the end. Or that “times are tough, so all you are getting is 1/4 of a zip”. Iconic.




Included in the lookbook released on Friday are Palace irreplaceables Lucien Clarke as well as Blondey McCoy (who also has a Thames x Fred Perry collab coming soon on top of that cannot-miss art expo). The men of Palace are out just loving life and sharing time with friends and fam in these London streets and it’s such a good look.

Go set an alarm: Palace AW17 launches at Palace shops on Friday August 11
Online launch via www.palaceskateboards.com on Friday August 18 at 11 AM (EST – London time)

Lookbook images: Mike O’Meally

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INTRODUCING ARKET: THE NEW MARKET FOR ESSENTIALS CREATED BY H&M http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24189/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24189/#respond Fri, 04 Aug 2017 09:15:43 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24189 ARKET, H&M Group’s newest descendant, is ready to step to the fore now. The brand’s name harks back to its core idea of being a modern-day market for essentials, but actually means “sheet of paper” in Swedish. The first ARKET brick-and-mortar opens on London’s Regent Street on August 25, coinciding with its online launch. Eighteen new European locations will open up all through the following weeks, with locations in Brussels, Munich and Copenhagen slated to open first. A debut AW17 campaign – styled by Jodie Barnes and shot by Zoe Ghertner, Chloe Le Drezen and Paul Wetherell – unveils a sleek, warm array of well-made wardrobe classics with sportswear stylings. So what’s tea? Or as Google Translate puts it: vad är teet? (Don’t come for me, Swedes). ARKET has actually been in the pipeline at a dedicated Stockholm studio since the winter of 2015 ... Read More »]]>


ARKET
, H&M Group’s newest descendant, is ready to step to the fore now. The brand’s name harks back to its core idea of being a modern-day market for essentials, but actually means “sheet of paper” in Swedish. The first ARKET brick-and-mortar opens on London’s Regent Street on August 25, coinciding with its online launch. Eighteen new European locations will open up all through the following weeks, with locations in Brussels, Munich and Copenhagen slated to open first. A debut AW17 campaign – styled by Jodie Barnes and shot by Zoe Ghertner, Chloe Le Drezen and Paul Wetherell – unveils a sleek, warm array of well-made wardrobe classics with sportswear stylings. So what’s tea? Or as Google Translate puts it: vad är teet? (Don’t come for me, Swedes).

ARKET has actually been in the pipeline at a dedicated Stockholm studio since the winter of 2015 and the entire range will include womenswear, menswear, children’s apparel, accessories, homeware and interior objects as well as a healthy café concept. So why is it named after a piece of paper? This is a reference to Nordic traditions of simple, long-lasting design as well as the “everything is possible” kind of optimism the designers felt at the prospect of this project.


What this newest Scandi surefire hit aims to do is provide a timeless “archive” collection of everything from cashmere knits to close-fitting denim that will be repeated throughout subsequent seasons with variations in colour, material and proportion. Thus creating a family of everyday uniforms. That actually sounds perf because picking a #mood on a dark winter morning could stand to be made easier, and we’ve known forever that we need to call our closet “The Archive”.

The way products are described and the website is set up has a slight Margiela ring to it, with product codes, suppliers and material combinations adding dimension to each piece of apparel. This is no cagoule, it’s “142006-518 – Department 1 Men Type 42 Outerwear” if you must know.



Pricing will be set slightly higher than at H&M (ranging from €39 to €115) because material choice and social responsibility are a main factor at ARKET. The choice of suppliers and consumer information on product care will reflect that strategy. First proof of that are the short Instagram clips personally introducing manufacturers from China to Romania and Sweden and showing their contributions. Increased transparency in fast fashion can only be welcomed. ARKET will also be selling other brand items including Nike, adidas and Diemme – according to TextilWirtschaft.

You can join the ARKET mailing list to pre-shop from August 23 (at a reduced rate) via arket.com

ARKET Brussels will open at Avenue de la Toison D’Or 15 later this year.

Images: ARKET

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KELELA QUAKES STANS WITH DEBUT ALBUM DATE + FIRST SINGLE (LISTEN) http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24181/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24181/#respond Wed, 02 Aug 2017 09:24:46 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24181 If you’ve been hitting rewind (you know what I did there) on Kelela’s breakout EP’s “Hallucinogen” and “Cut 4 Me” for the past four years, you are about to be delivered. The elusive artist announced the arrival of her debut album “Take Me Apart” – coming October 6 on Warp Records – plus dropped a first single named “LMK” last night and the socials were left aquiver.

“LMK” (Let Me Know) is a sensory overload of a bop that will honestly speak to everyone who has ever gone on a date (“It ain’t that deep by the way, no one’s tryna settle down, all you gotta do is let me know”).

In a statement, Kelela breaks down what we can expect: “Despite it being a personal record, the politics of my identity informs how it sounds and how I choose to articulate ... Read More »]]>


If you’ve been hitting rewind (you know what I did there) on Kelela’s breakout EP’s “Hallucinogen” and “Cut 4 Me” for the past four years, you are about to be delivered. The elusive artist announced the arrival of her debut album “Take Me Apart” – coming October 6 on Warp Records – plus dropped a first single named “LMK” last night and the socials were left aquiver.

“LMK” (Let Me Know) is a sensory overload of a bop that will honestly speak to everyone who has ever gone on a date (“It ain’t that deep by the way, no one’s tryna settle down, all you gotta do is let me know”).


In a statement, Kelela breaks down what we can expect: “Despite it being a personal record, the politics of my identity informs how it sounds and how I choose to articulate my vulnerability and strength. I am a black woman, a second-generation Ethiopian-American, who grew up in the ’burbs listening to R&B, jazz and Björk. All of it comes out in one way or another.” This is going to be suh good. (Speaking of Björk, that Jesse Kanda-shot Dazed cover is pretty much everything, be quick to snatch your copy when it comes out August 3).

All you can do now is Palo Santo your soul and check out the album tracklist while channelling what these titles will sound like, replay LMK endlessly, put on A Seat At The Table’s “Scales” for the honeyed combo of Solo plus Kelela, listen to this playlist and get your life scrolling through Black Twitter.


Pre-order Kelela‘s “Take Me Apart” online here, on vinyl here.

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SOMETHING TO BE PROUD OF: BELGIAN FASHION & ANTWERP PRIDE AT MOMU http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24156/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24156/#respond Mon, 31 Jul 2017 09:46:46 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24156 In a first ever collaboration, Antwerp Pride, Antwerp Queer Arts Festival and MoMu will present the installation “Something To Be Proud Of: Belgian Fashion & Antwerp Pride” during Antwerp Pride. From August 8 till August 20, this mini expo is set to explore gender diversity and sexuality in Belgian fashion through a series of four fashion images provided by Walter Van Beirendonck, Wim Bruynooghe, A.F. Vandevorst and Ann Demeulemeester. Additionally, photographer Jill Bertels – a trusted documentarian of Antwerp Pride – has provided images from her own archive for the occasion.

As yours truly likes to point out with intermittent hand claps whenever it’s appropriate (most often when it’s not): gender is a social construct and the vast and diverse amount of talent that represents Antwerp fashion has always explored queerness and gender identity and fluidity in an unabashed and tone-setting way. ... Read More »]]>


In a first ever collaboration, Antwerp Pride, Antwerp Queer Arts Festival and MoMu will present the installation “Something To Be Proud Of: Belgian Fashion & Antwerp Pride” during Antwerp Pride. From August 8 till August 20, this mini expo is set to explore gender diversity and sexuality in Belgian fashion through a series of four fashion images provided by Walter Van Beirendonck, Wim Bruynooghe, A.F. Vandevorst and Ann Demeulemeester. Additionally, photographer Jill Bertels – a trusted documentarian of Antwerp Pride – has provided images from her own archive for the occasion.

As yours truly likes to point out with intermittent hand claps whenever it’s appropriate (most often when it’s not): gender is a social construct and the vast and diverse amount of talent that represents Antwerp fashion has always explored queerness and gender identity and fluidity in an unabashed and tone-setting way. Whether it has been the work of icons such as Walter Van Beirendonck who has paved the way since the early 80s with collections turning traditional notions of masculinity on their head (for example the SS00 “Gender?” collection) or even this year’s batch of Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp Fashion Department graduates like Robbie Van Mierlo, the message has been uniform: society’s limits just do not apply here. There’s no better time than Pride (celebrating its tenth anniversary in Antwerp) to soak in this always-needed message from important voices.


Robbie Van Mierlo SHOW2017 (image: antwerp-fashion.be)

Top Image:
Wim Bruynooghe AW16
“Queer Beauty Project”
Photography: Kris De Smedt
H&MU: Sabine Peeters

“SOMETHING TO BE PROUD OF: BELGIAN FASHION & ANTWERP PRIDE”
August 8 – 20 2017

MoMu Antwerp
Nationalestraat 28
2000 Antwerp
Open Tue-Sun (10 AM – 6 PM)
www.momu.be

On August 5, you can also visit MoMu during Museum Night (more info here). 

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ART & THERAPY: BLONDEY MCCOY’S “US AND CHEM” EXPO http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24139/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24139/#comments Fri, 28 Jul 2017 08:26:25 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24139 Being a terrific skater, instrumental Palace stalwart, inspiring creative director and philanthropist just won’t cut it for Blondey McCoy. He happens to make touching works of art too. For what is now already his fifth solo show, titled “Us and Chem”, which opened last night in SoHo, the prolific and prodigious artist introspectively explores the use of art as his personal therapy. “Us and Chem” features 13 new Blondey McCoy works on mirror plus a special spin painting (splashed at a canvas on a spinning platform) created with a little-known backwater artist called Damien Hirst (okay!), whom he met during a visit to Hirst’s acclaimed Palazzo Grassi Venice expo “Treasures From the Wreck of the Unbelievable”. To call this collaboration a real feat is putting it truly lightly. “Beautiful, Chemically Imbalanced” – Blondey McCoy and Damien Hirst “I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lorazepam”

Blondey McCoy has been refreshingly ... Read More »]]>


Being a terrific skater, instrumental Palace stalwart, inspiring creative director and philanthropist just won’t cut it for Blondey McCoy. He happens to make touching works of art too. For what is now already his fifth solo show, titled “Us and Chem”, which opened last night in SoHo, the prolific and prodigious artist introspectively explores the use of art as his personal therapy.

“Us and Chem” features 13 new Blondey McCoy works on mirror plus a special spin painting (splashed at a canvas on a spinning platform) created with a little-known backwater artist called Damien Hirst (okay!), whom he met during a visit to Hirst’s acclaimed Palazzo Grassi Venice expo “Treasures From the Wreck of the Unbelievable”. To call this collaboration a real feat is putting it truly lightly.

“Beautiful, Chemically Imbalanced” – Blondey McCoy and Damien Hirst

“I Can’t Believe It’s Not Lorazepam”

Blondey McCoy has been refreshingly candid about his own struggles with mental illness in the past, and this show is the cathartic fruit of his continued efforts to deal with what’s going on inside. The result is a beautiful collage of the artist’s past and present merging in UV-printed personal photography and texts that reflect whoever happens to be standing in front of them. And I strongly suggest you go do just that.

“Confession, I”

“Han Jomo”

“HENI”

Blondey McCoy
“Us and Chem”
July 27 – August 27

Heni Gallery
6-10 Lexington Street
London, U.K.

Monday – Sunday: 10-6pm.

Images: Mike O’Meally & Blondey McCoy

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EVERYTHING WE KNOW SO FAR ABOUT THE NEW HELMUT LANG http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24119/ http://www.knotoryus.com/archives/24119/#respond Thu, 27 Jul 2017 10:39:30 +0000 http://www.knotoryus.com/?p=24119 The long-awaited Helmut Lang revival is not just in the building; it took the elevator up and is impatiently rapping its fingers on a nearby desk waiting for you to grab lunch. With Dazed EIC Isabella Burley now wearing the – undoubtedly sleek – hat of Editor-In-Residence, a new dawn has settled to draw fresh eyes to the legendary brand that its originator stepped away from 12 years ago. The Helmut Lang ecosystem of 2017 will contain a rollcall of guest designers among other ambitious projects, and first up is Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver – who also sports a terrific mirrorball earpiece in a newly unveiled campaign. Lensed by Ethan James Green, the first images feature “an intergenerational cast of progressive thinkers, new faces and creative icons” so here’s what you need to know about this marvelous renaissance. Shayne Oliver for ... Read More »]]>


The long-awaited Helmut Lang revival is not just in the building; it took the elevator up and is impatiently rapping its fingers on a nearby desk waiting for you to grab lunch. With Dazed EIC Isabella Burley now wearing the – undoubtedly sleek – hat of Editor-In-Residence, a new dawn has settled to draw fresh eyes to the legendary brand that its originator stepped away from 12 years ago. The Helmut Lang ecosystem of 2017 will contain a rollcall of guest designers among other ambitious projects, and first up is Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver – who also sports a terrific mirrorball earpiece in a newly unveiled campaign. Lensed by Ethan James Green, the first images feature “an intergenerational cast of progressive thinkers, new faces and creative icons” so here’s what you need to know about this marvelous renaissance.

Shayne Oliver for Helmut Lang

Taking the work of the iconic self-taught Viennese designer, now working as a visual artist tucked away in East Hampton, and re-imagining his legacy while never losing sight of what made the original great is the daunting task set upon today’s Lang Gang. Think unflinching modernism with a slightly grim sense of humour.

Nicky Rat for Helmut Lang

First to be the heralds of Helmut Lang 2.0 (let’s gloss over some less memorable earlier reincarnations) are Chris Kraus (writer of “I Love Dick”), Little Miss Flint Mari Copeny (a true young force and side-eye inspiration), Alek Wek (the original Lang muse), Traci Lords, artist Nicky Rat, uninymic model Dara and 14-year-old Japanese IG stunt sensation Yoshi. Also included are masters like Larry Clark, Kembra Pfahler, Unlocking The Truth, Alanie Quinones, Aurel Haize Odogbo, Grace Gee, Ian Isiah, Gogo Graham and Sohyun Jun. Using the format of early Lang campaigns, the cast is decked out in AW17, Resort ’18 and Men’s Resort ’18 Helmut Lang designed in part by Shayne Oliver and showing flashes of (nipple-baring) archive inspiration. Casting trans models of colour such as Dara, Gogo and Aurel is a welcome flash of visibility to counter the current news cycle of despair. Add to that the official reinstatement of the original Helmut Lang logo and sardonic slogans peppered around the website like “The only COMPANY that cares for YOU” and “Impress your parents, wear Helmut Lang” and you’ve got a heady mix there for true acolytes. And there are many.

Yoshi for Helmut Lang


If you hear Helmut Lang spoken of too gushingly, whosoever’s talking is probably not doing enough because this man was responsible for originating an entirely new way of designing, propelling an architectural approach to minimalism that inspired generations of designers, incorporating denim and bondage gear in a way no one else was. And those clothes are as covetable today as ever. He even pioneered the concept of live internet fashion show streams in 1998!

Additionally, the upcoming “Seen By: The Artist Series” will leave the image of Lang in the hands of 12 different artists over the course of a year. The first series of names that have been announced are Leigh Ledare, Carolee Schneemann, archive Peter Hujar, Paul Mpagi Sepuya, archive Mark Morrisroe, Boris Mikhailov, Martine Syms, Walter Pfeiffer, Carrie Mae Weems, Keizo Kitajima, Adrienne Salinger and Andrew Miksys. The collaborations will include posters, t-shirts, art objects and special items the proceeds of which will be partially donated to a charity picked by the artist. Walter Pfeiffer’s contribution will be the first in line to become available in October. This concept is based on Helmut Lang’s original artist collaboration with greats like Louise Bourgeois and Jenny Holzer.

Louise Bourgeois by Bruce Weber for Helmut Lang

Jenny Holzer for Helmut Lang Fragrances

We can also look forward to the Helmut Lang Re-Edition line containing pieces from the archive which will be reissued in rotation, allowing you to get your hands on that skeletal cutout cardi or impeccably tailored white shirt you were too teenage broke to get in the 90s or early 2000s. Volume 1 will contain 15 items and launch September 5. Four months later, Volume 2 will be released. As you wait, indulge in this glorious SS96 show report by a young Tim Blanks.

But of course, most of the anticipation is reserved for the designer residency. Shayne Oliver will make his mark on September 11 during New York Fashion Week with the collection named “HELMUT LANG SEEN BY SHAYNE OLIVER”. Lang famously swapped Paris for New York in 1998 resulting in a total shift in the fashion week calendar and which also is the exact antithesis of what many New York designers are doing today. In any case, Shayne Oliver is sure to bring back the uncompromising rawness to a brand he himself was inspired by for Hood By Air, a noteworthy symbol of the ouroboros we call fashion inspiration.

Campaign credits

Photographer: Ethan James Green
Editor-In-Residence: Isabella Burley
Styling: Robbie Spencer
Hair: Holli Smith
Make-Up: Kanako Takase
Set Design: Julia Wagner
Casting: Establishment
Creative Advisory: Framework

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