Due to a certain brand’s relaunch, we all know why New York Fashion Week is first on the roster during September fashion month (spoiler alert: it was the iconic move of one Mr Helmut Lang from Paris to New York in 1998). The SS18 NYFW collections are now behind us, we’ve already delved into the Calvin Klein show, London is already here so get into a top four (a.k.a. the new top five) of New York surprises to screenshot for your spring vision board.
Vaquera (i.e. Patric DiCaprio, David Moses, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully) had their casting director and his mom take to the runway this seasons and that’s the kind of New York energy we’re looking for. Do I need this bridal bathrobe situation? I think you know I do.
Shayne Oliver’s debut for Helmut Lang was much-anticipated and most likely turned some off due to its brazen sexuality instead of Lang’s more muted version, but that won’t impact the bottom line one bit since those clear Perspex briefcases are already the biggest buzz pieces out of NYC. All you need for spring is a classic Helmut coat, a bold Inge Grognard lip and that’s that on that.
The unabashed way Dutch-born New Yorker Sander Lak drenches his clothing in ‘happy’ (luminescent fabrics, teal crumpled satin ton-sur-ton, power purple shaggy shearling…) speaks of a confidence befitting an ascending name in fashion. This look was the darkest one and still bounces off your retina with glossy fervour.
It’s clear that Oscar De La Renta creative directors Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia have much to say, if they can live in the double dichotomy of Park Avenue Oscar gowns and their own baby Monse’s universes at the same time. Obviously that Demna influence still won’t let up (on anyone for that matter), but I’m interested in seeing how they evolve.
Images: Vogue Runway